What? Unethical?
Ongoing unethical practices in the
cosmetic industry are evident and debatable. Currently, the most widely
reported and notable unethical practice would probably be the unethical animal
testing practices on the pre-supplier, research end of the business chain.
Despite current Food and Drug Administration’s open regulations, not requiring
the testing of products on animals before commercial release, many companies
still choose to test their products on rabbits and rats. Although there are
many other alternatives to unethical animal testing, such as human tissue
cultures and sophisticated computer technology, companies still choose these
unethical practices out of convenience and lowered budgets.
According to activist organization
People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals, better known as, PETA
there are actually many positive companies in need of ethical consumer support.
PETA also keeps a list
of the numerous ethical questionable companies that do, in fact, incorporate
animal testing into their product research. However, the Harvard Business Review reports that despite the questionable
ethics behind animal testing, some countries, such as China, still require
“cosmetics to be tested on animals” (Jones 145). Companies such as Brazilian
based 4Natura, known for its emphasis on all natural products and ethical
practices, opted to not enter the competitive Chinese market due to these
unethical regulations.
Yes..and We
Actually Have More…
Other than these practices of
animal cruelty in China, according to The
Economist, “Quality, cleanliness and safety, for instance, are still
rare in a country where stories abound of fake baby milk and washed diapers
sold as new.” Geoffrey Jones also asserts how “Avon’s recent problems in China
– where allegations of bribery of local officials have tarnished its brand,
damaged relations with sales representatives, and made possible a takeover bid
by Coty” (145). Avon’s ethical problems in the Chinese market are reflected in
its drastically lowered RNOA rate, or profitability ratings, though their
business sales remain undisputed.
Other than animal testing debates
and problematic developing markets, the cosmetic industry also faces other
ethical challenges with the growing awareness of the general population. The
Internet has also become both a blessing and problem for these developing cosmetic
companies because of the many discussions on ethical and unethical business
practices. Also, the popularity of the Internet has also resulted in a demand
for higher emphasis on customer reviews and knowledge.
Guideline? Or
Worse?
As early as 2006, Helena
Spongenberg reports how the UN passed the “new Brussels guidelines,” forcing
cosmetic firms to “disclose any reports they might have received of a product –
ranging from perfumes to lipsticks – causing allergic reactions or irritant
effects.” These new guidelines set in 2006 also force cosmetic companies to
list their complete ingredients upon costumer request, reflecting the
importance of complete consumer knowledge transparency as an ethical practice.
Consumer complaints are also one of the most prominent ways the government can
regulate companies and company marketing practices. As in the case of
cosmetics, in which the overall industry that encourages costumers to spend
more and look younger, medical and purely external cosmetics are often blurred.
During these instances of dispute, the government often relies on populations
such as doctors or in-the-know customers to make complaints to regulate
companies.
However, according to Robert
Mendick, exclusive discount offers that group medical procedures with cosmetic
discounts are actually “not legally enforceable.” This was brought to light
when discounts offered by a cosmetic company called Transform “have been
criticized as unethical by senior surgeons who accuse.
Transform of encouraging women to
undergo combinations of procedures that could increase the risk of
complications.” These reports of unethical company behavior not only bring
company ethics to the forefront, it also highlights consumer complaints as a
real force in enforcing public judgments towards unethical practices.
However, despite these continuous
calls for ethical behavior by the consuming public and activist organizations
such as PETA, lawful regulations are still slow on the global scale. Other than
the widely publicized and debated animal rights regarding cosmetic product
testing in the research stages, there are actually still many underlining
problems in the cosmetic industry that were only suggested and have yet to be
put to the forefront.
Many of these problems regard developing
countries and their various practices regarding cosmetic regulations. While
countries like China still uphold unethical regulations demanding animal
testing, more problematic is the local economy structure and the corrupt
business and governmental relations. Such business practices are not only
detrimental to a company in the long run, they are also negative press and
associations in the present.
Furthermore, these practices would
also reflect to the knowledgeable consumer about the core objectives of a
company, suggesting that these companies are actually more in favor of business
revenue than the overall benefit of society. When a cosmetic company has such a
reputation in the industry and among customers, this can be a large obstacle
for its company sustainability and growth in the long run.
References:
Jones, Geoffrey. “The Growth Opportunity that Lies Next
Door.” Harvard Business Review:
July-August 2012. p141-6. Print.
“Retailing in China.” The
Economist. May 19 2011. Web.
http://www.economist.com/node/7246087
Spongenberg, Helena. “Cosmetics Firms to Give Customers
Info.” Aug 28, 2006.
Bloomberg
Businessweek: Global Economics. Web. http://beta.fool.com/gibbstom13/2012/02/15/avon-beat-not-broken/2046/
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